Just west of the Mexican mainland and south of the US border lies Baja Peninsula - land of lovely beaches, remote deserts and crystalline waters. Whether you want to view ancient Indian rock art, surf off islas de Todos Santos or savor the best margarita in Ensenada, Lonely Planet reveals the best of Baja on and off the tourist track. Sleepy? Where to stay from desert camp to ritzy resorts. Hungry? Local cuisine from huevos fritos to lobster burritos. Active? Diving, surfing, whale watching and fishing hot spots. Lost? 38 detailed maps throughout. No habla español? Handy Spanish language and menu translators.