Chase the ghosts - or your shadow - through the basement halls of Diocletians's Palace in Split. Eyeball an elephant amid the subtropial greenery at Tito's hideway on the Brijuni Islands. Sniff out a truffle in the Istrian hills and cook them local style with eggs or pasta. Get your kit off and swim with the naturist locals on the Pakleni Islands. Find out if all those spotted dogs really come from Dalmatia.
The original English language guide to Croatia, a decade of in-country experience, 60 maps.